Anyway, we could climb outside, so that's all that counts right? Got a tour from William & Tom of El Ranchero, another drainage out in Roy. The area is probably less than 50% developed, and only the warmups and hard moderates were really evident, but it quite clearly has huge potential for upper-end hard climbing. Projected a face of one perfect boulder that had a merlot patina riddled with Font-esque hexagonal seams. But climbs were out of my league... I estimate this one wall could have 4 or 5 back-to-back double digit independent lines, mostly up thin rounded seams, but one problem goes out of a roof with a huge deadpoint move, very cool. Some of the rock here was outstanding, reminiscent of the iron rock at red rocks. The area is definitely worth going back to, but I'd like to sniff out the un-done moderate circuit that surely exists.
I convinced Tyler Green - a photographer from Albuquerque who's into climbing and the outdoors - to come meet us and get some professional-level photos of the climbing out there. Tyler's a great guy and was happy to drag around a bunch of heavy photo equipment to capture some of rock grappling shenanigans. Hopefully we'll get him out again, his photos were awesome and it's always good to show someone a new piece of NM climbing. He has a blog, go check out his shots from the weekend here.
Noah was back in town the following weekend and naturally amped for Nosos AKA the most beautiful rock in the world. With his signature enthusiasm he blazed a trail of new problems, some of which had been ignored - or at least put on the back-burner - due to bad landings, which didn't really phase him! The most dramatic is a new roof called The Horribleness Below, basically an easy but thrilling campus problem out of a horizontal roof on the biggest jugs you've ever seen. Every hold makes you want to grab the next despite the death landing below.
But Noah cleaned up some less scary stuff too and the gem was the new Dream Boat boulder, which looks a bit like a ship thats been grounded after a flood. The best straight-up has a no-fall landing situation, but the traverse is very manageable with a few pads, and climbs really well. Some nice dynamic up moves punctuated the long upwards traverse on superb incuts. Very pumpy, and a nice contrast to the typical wavy straight-up Nosos highball problems. Once we refined the beta, we settled on v6. Definitely a nice addition to the Nosos circuit. Eric Natzke and Noah gave the dyno some good burns, got close but a misjudged throw can cost skin... Great seeing Noah, Siemay and Zun, hope to see you guys again soon!
Alright I think those are enough words for this post, here's some pics. Next month Eric Bissell, fresh out of the Venezuelean jungle, and Keenan Takahashi, on a hot streak in the Yosemitean jungle, come to town on a mission to bring Nosos into the world of the double digit boulderer. Can't wait to see my friends and have some grand adventures out here in NM!
Will the ripple project get sent? Will the dyno get snatched? Will Eric punt from even higher than he did before? Stay tuned for the next edition of Bowlder Huntin!
Life in the Fast Lane v5
Siemay on a new one
Noah on Dream Boat v6
Craig on the excellent Two Stroke v3. Photo by Gary Parker
Amazing sloper of Baby's Butt v5. Photo by Gary Parker