Sunday, July 27, 2014

Summer bowlderin': Posos and Ortega

It may be hot and stormy here in NM but we're still trying to get out on new rock. Two spots in particular are high enough in elevation (8500-9000') to just about escape the heat - Posos and Ortega, both made of the wonderful ortega quartzite. Posos has been developed by William Penner and Tom Ellis, so really just a re-discovery for us, Ortega is all new.

Posos is actually a real gem of an area, small but quality, a nice mix of high and low-ball, steep & beefy as well as vert & techy. Mostly moderates, but theres an incredible V7, and the sit is an even more incredible project that surely will go, but likely in the V12 range. I think this line could honestly be one of the best lines in NM. The rock here is pretty extraordinary, crazy knobbly but smooth texture like limestone, and stained orange like rocklands or something!

Jamie on Jackpot Roof at an Ortega satellite zone.

Isaac on the 4 star V7 line at Posos.

Stephanie eyeing up the deadpoint on a short but steep roof boulder.

Posos project.

Really weird rock!

Beautiful wall!

Stunning rock

Heath on the aforementioned V7, different angle.

Friday, May 16, 2014

Nosos Projects

In the spirit of Trent Hoover's analytical approach to sending projects, I thought I'd make a quick tally of the super obvious projects at Nosos that "need to be sent". Sadly most are out of my range, but you never know, maybe there's some surprise low-hanging fruit out there.

(1) Arete project right of Too Good To Be American. Very ascetic line... deceptive and technical due to complete lack of feet, and sloping quartzite edge on what would be a sharp clean-cut arete if it were made of granite. Reminiscent of a classic Fontainebleau sandstone or Stanage gritstone line. Speculative grade V8/9

Photo by Kevin Carhart

(2) The dyno project. Summit boulder. Maybe the best problem in NM when it goes? I stand no chance of doing this one but I'd love to see it go down one day. Speculative grade V11

(3) Right of dyno project. Summit boulder. Claw your way up a beautiful belly of smooth quartzite using a few tiny incuts, then make a big tensioney move to a better hold. Funny how some boulders just hold line after line of quality? There's probably very few people in NM right now who are capable of pulling this one off, but it'll go one day for sure. Speculative grade V12 with a more difficult extension possible (13?).

Photo by Vikki Glinskii / RV Project

(4) The ripple project. Yes it's still technically a project, Eric got spat off the V0 topout after a jug broke on him. Speculative grade V9 (well, not really speculative...)

Photo Eric Bissell selfie

(5) My top secret compression project. No photo. I'll tell you more when I do it. Speculative grade V6-8

Many more lower quality projects, and boulders which need some "vision" / better landings (no photos). Or maybe I'll just go to ortega where you cant swing a cat without hitting a 4 star unclimbed boulder problem.

Next week we're off to squamish, so hopefully with come back with some technique and sloper paw power to work at least the arete and compression line. Also Im hoping that all the climbing on "non-features" will help me see some of Nosos less-obvious lines that are lurking in plain sight. Wish me luck!

Monday, May 12, 2014

Homunculus V6

A new problem at Ortega mountain (well, they're all new). Both problem and photo by Gary Parker.

Saturday, May 10, 2014

Ortega Mountain

More on this area in future posts, but here's a couple of photos from today.

The Ortega quartzite forms ludicrously good holds.

Eric on Foxy Boxing V3

Great warmupish problem we cleaned and established today/

Friday, May 2, 2014

La Madera

Ok time for an inaugural post on La Madera, the new bouldering area in town!

No one has any idea how this place has escaped the attention of climbers for so many years - its essentially roadside, you can see hundreds of obviously large granite-esque eggs sitting on a hillside as you drive by. And upon closer inspection, you can see that it is not granite, but in fact quartzite, just unbelievably gorgeous rock which is known in a handful of places - e.g. Big Cottonwood Canyon and Ibex in UT, Devils Lake WI and Rocklands, south africa.

The rock at La Madera (AKA Nosos) is very very pure, 90-95% quartz, and has retained the sloping morphology of the parent sandstone, giving fantastically ergonomic slopers and interesting, featureless bulges, whilst being split by intermittent dikes of quartz that hold crimps allowing just enough to negotiate these often otherwise blank slopes.

Here's some photos.

Nosos, part of the Ortega mountains.

Calita battlin slopers on "Lovin Oven" V4

The views arent bad.

Sun and snow? Its new mexico, so -> yeah!

Epic dyno project



The Wind Below V5

Epic Rocklands-esque roof

Too Good To Be American V2/3. Its soo good!