The existence of Roy's bountiful Dakota sandstone was teasingly flashed to the public via Climbing.com several years ago, and certainly succeeded in getting many climbers interested, desperate even, to know about this unknown area. Fast forward a few years and some more lingering moments of exposure of this area now abound (Here and here and here and here). Myself, I found out about Roy from Noah Kaufman's adventures.
So, after moving to New Mexico, and a lot of faffing around, I finally got around to making the journey out east, a strange experience (for me) of seeking a climbing destination east of the Rockies. What's that about?!
Ok, so just a whirlwind 2 day trip, really it would take a good month or so to get to grips with what Roy has to offer, but first of all I gotta say Im impressed! The rock quality was excellent, with all kinds of features and overhangs to play with. I dont mind the grainy, sandy sandstone, and there was some of that, but there were also walls of perfect, bullet fine-grained maroon-varnished stuff, really perfect climbing rock that would impress anyone. Definitely the best rock Ive seen in NM, hands down.
Well I didnt get pictures of the best stuff and Im a little tired right now so Ill save you the blow by blow account of our adventure, but suffice to say Ill be back, ASAP!
Some random sandstone patina.
Roy! The future of agriculture, 1943
Thank you for making this obscure haven public land.
On safari on the approach
Really shitty picture of a cool warmup boulder
The sport routes there looked quite tasty!
Tiger Stripe Wall
Jason Kehl EDIT: Brian Arnold DOUBLE EDIT: Brian Capps highball, One-Eyed Clown V10, a proud line
Middle Mesteno Canyon
Thumbelina EDIT: Spring Chicken V3
And may all your ascents lead to meaningful summits, young human.
As a postscript I'm very happy to disclose information about any of the climbing areas Ive been to, Roy included, so if you're interested PM me. If you do make it to Roy, be careful about just heading out wherever. The land ownership is like a patchwork quilt out there, and its your responsibility to figure this out before you get out there!